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A clutch should be
adjusted so that its torque curve intersects the engine's torque curve at
its highest point. This occurs at 4,000 rpm in the graph above.
At "peak torque" rpm the engine's crankshaft is twisting with its greatest
possible force.
If the
engine and clutch rpm stabilize at the peak torque value until slipping is no longer
required, you get the maximum possible acceleration.
Stabilize is the key word. At engagement rpm the
clutch discs are squeezed and released rapidly in order to extract energy from the engine.
It happens faster than the eyes can see and faster than tachometers can
indicate. Each time the clutch squeezes, the engine slows down and
each time it releases, the engine speeds up. But it slows down more
than it speeds up! The engine does not stay at the ideal rpm for very
long - it's unstable. The engine moves down its torque curve where it
produces less torque. Potential acceleration is lost. Hysteresis
is to blame.
Eventually the kart develops
enough speed where clutch slip is no longer required. Engine rpm can
then climb to a much higher value. If the engine stays above
engagement rpm for the duration of the race, hysteresis is not much of an
issue. But if slow starts, restarts or slow turns are part of the
race, then hysteresis is very important. Clutch slip lasts for several
seconds. Multiply that by the number of times it slips during a race
and the total slip time is significant.
All kart racing clutches
exhibit hysteresis. Rim clutches, cone clutches and disc clutches have
it. Shifter kart clutches and axle clutches have it too. Some clutches have more
hysteresis than others. A lot more. "Coarse dynamic shift feel"
or "Hard hitting" clutches have far too much hysteresis. Clutches with
little hysteresis have a smooth "dynamic shift feel".
In summary: minimize hysteresis
to maximize acceleration.
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